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Post by kaqbot on Jun 16, 2007 8:01:09 GMT -5
looking for some ideas on blacking out the front grills ,im using flt blk spray paint and wipe it down , also tried the paint wash ,what else is there ? ;D
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mopar1
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Post by mopar1 on Sept 15, 2007 7:16:46 GMT -5
ive always just used flt black paint... mix it thinner till it runs like water and dab it on to the grille with a brush.. set the grille down flat and let it settle on its own..... practice on one thats not important. if the mixture is not thin enough, it wont slide off the high spots.. if its to thin you will have to apply it several times.. remember...let it settle on its own..the chrome is very fragile when the paint is on it, so trying to wipe often dulls the chrome or destroys it completely Mopar1
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Post by moparmissle on Sept 16, 2007 18:59:27 GMT -5
Mopar is dead on correct. For something different you can also sometimes open the grill up and use screen very very small. Or dark nylon stockings. Yes I said womens stockings. Cut a piece a bit bigger than the grill opening and use white glue (elmers or what you prefer) to glue it to the back of the grill. Let it dry usually 6hrs to day just to be safe. Then when its dry trim the exess stocking off and presto a grill that looks good. And will also hold any grill decals. Just cut them out right on the edges and again use white glue.
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Rollsbug
Junior Member
Don't know what I am doing and having fun doing it
Posts: 119
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Post by Rollsbug on Sept 17, 2007 10:51:14 GMT -5
For my grills and rims and anything else that needs that kinda of detail I use water wash up enamel paint. I use a Q-tip and wipe it on(straight from the jar no thinning) the Q-tip allows it to push the paint into the lower place. Then once a spot is covered I use another Q-tip or paper towel to wipe the high spots clean. If it dries to fast or not right you can use soap and water to clean it. (Although this should be done sooner than later because once the paint sets it is kind of hard to remove with just the soap and water) ;D
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opa1
Junior Member
Posts: 133
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Post by opa1 on Sept 17, 2007 20:24:34 GMT -5
I've been using the Detailer wash and have liked the results..
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Post by bill_rules on Oct 6, 2007 9:22:46 GMT -5
ultra fine point sharpie. a little glossy but doesn't look to bad.
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Post by 41Chevy on Oct 10, 2007 19:24:32 GMT -5
The Detailer is good, but I also use Testers Acryl ....pait it on let dry about an hour and use a Q tip and Alcohol to clean off high areas. Paul
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Post by kaqbot on Oct 14, 2007 9:21:04 GMT -5
im trying the detail wash at the moment ,thanks for the help
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vwdave
Full Member
It's Ferb-tastic!
Posts: 292
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Post by vwdave on Oct 14, 2007 18:39:11 GMT -5
Over the years I've had good results from Higgins black ink('India ink' to use old timers and non-PC types ) thinned with water....about 50-70% ink, give or take. It's cool because the ink is water-based, so cleanup is a snap. I like to say it's "pretty much goof proof." It's also good for panel lines, like on my wife's Mini Cooper: I did the panel lines and rear engine vents with it on my '66 Beetle as well:
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Post by kaqbot on Oct 21, 2007 5:57:33 GMT -5
india ink,wow i havent heard about that stuff in a long time ,sounds good ill have to fid some
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vwdave
Full Member
It's Ferb-tastic!
Posts: 292
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Post by vwdave on Oct 21, 2007 20:06:22 GMT -5
I'm not even sure where to buy the stuff, probably a decent art supply store, or I'd say check Michaels or A.C. Moore craft stores....my mom had a bottle of it that is older than me, and I got it from her. An airbrush jar makes a nice container for the mixture; apply it with a round ick chiseled down to a thin slotted screwdriver-type tip, and cut off at about a 45 degree angle at the very tip. Once it's been soaked a little bit, the ink mixture flows off it very easily, and capillary action helps it flow right around the panel in question. To fully do a model's panel lines might take 2 sittings, also due to the same capillary action that helps it flow.
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