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Post by The Mad Modeller on Sept 2, 2011 21:23:47 GMT -5
How do you guys keep from burning thru and how do you get up close to body lines? This is all new to me.
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Post by 68chevy on Sept 3, 2011 7:44:10 GMT -5
Here is how I polish my cars- I use the detail master polishing kit. Start with 3200, then 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12,000 grid. When you sand - sand only the big and flat areas leave all your edges. Then sand up and down when you switch sand front to back. This will level the clear front high and low spots. I polish with X 3M Finesse-It II Machine Polish and I brought some soft fabric at Hobby Lobby that I rub it out with. Just keep on until you get it like you want it. Do NOT use paper towels, it will scratch it. After rubbing it take a clean piece off with fabric. If you got enough clear on it you want rub through. If it doesn’t have a lot of trash in it you might want to skip 3200 and 3600 sandpaper. Hope this help you if have any question let me know.
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Post by The Mad Modeller on Sept 3, 2011 14:30:37 GMT -5
My biggest problem right now is getting it smooth at the body lines. I dont want to rub thru at those edges. I have 5 coats of clear on the body.
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Post by plasticcrafter on Sept 3, 2011 15:23:37 GMT -5
bobby, tear off a piece of 2000grit sandpaper about 3/4"x3/4" and fold it in half, sand very lightly up to the bodyline. after a few strokes wipe the surface dry and look for shiny spots. if you don't see any you are good, if you see them repeat the process. remember to do this very lightly, with 5 coats of clear you have a good thickness to work with. just don't sand over the bodylines. paint will flow off the highest point and you may only have a very thin film of clear on those. i have been asked many times how i wetsand and buff my trucks so i bring a painted test piece to shows to show those interested how i do it. i will be happy to show you my technique at new stanton if your interested. there are many different ways to do the process, so what works for one person may not work for another. when i was learning the process i used a little info from one person and some from another and created my way to do it. it takes time and patience but is very rewarding when done. hope this helps you on this subject.
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Post by The Mad Modeller on Sept 4, 2011 0:52:13 GMT -5
Hunter I will be ready for class in New Stanton.
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Post by zbuckster on Sept 4, 2011 11:46:58 GMT -5
Bobby I would like to share my technique for polishing out models. I also use 2000 grit wet and dry sand paper. After the clear as set up for a couple days. I use one of those pink erasers for a sanding block. It has several size and shaped sides. Like as been said stay away from any edges. I flat sand the clear. This eraser is about 2 3/8 inches long and 1 inch wide. Got it at Walmart in the Office Supplies section. Also great for flat sanding body work and if you sand under water it is water proof. After the shiny spots are all gone then I rub the body out with Turtle Wax Polishing Compound (not to be confused with rubbing compound). When it looks right I apply 2 or 3 coats of Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax. The result is stunning. I tried to take this picture of the reflection of a gold dollar in the roof of my 49 Merc. I had the lighting wrong but it will give you the idea. All the stuff I use came from Walmart. I live in a very small town that doesn't have a Hobby Shop, really there isn't one in the county, So I have to drive a couple hours or use what is handy. Thanks for giving me a place to ramble on. That Merc Body is cleared with Krylon Crystal Clear, it's an acrylic , like Future, and seems to be very decal friendly. It is dry in 10 minutes and is only $3.75 a large can at Walmart. This isn't a Walmart commerical it's the only place I have to shop. ;D
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Post by chevydrew on Sept 4, 2011 20:04:42 GMT -5
I'll throw in my 2 cents. I have used lots of different products for clear coat, but automotive products seem to look the best, and are the most forgiving ( not as easy to burn through} I've used the polishing kits and they work well=but take real time as your going through numerous stages of cutting. Depending on how much orange peel ((bumpy surface) your dealing with I usually start with wet light sand with 1000 grit, then 2000, then 3000. I like the earaser idea==always use a block for flatter surfaces., I came across Meguires "Ultimate Compound" just takes a light rubbing out. Then follow up with there "Ultimate Polish", then finally there wax. I have used 3m and others but this stuff really works good. Kinda pricey but would do 100 models and probably still have enough left over to do your daily driver. Good luck! Drew
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